We all such kindle

Yesterday we went for a walk, and I'm good for a walk

Yohji Wave 1

In other Yamamoto London happenings, the new Y-3 flagship store on 24 Conduit Street opened up.  It's odd how much of a game-changer in the way designers worked with accessible brands was when Yamamoto first started collaborating with adidas and now of course this is all taken for granted.  Now Y-3 is a covetable brand in its own right that is still for me one of the more interesting sports/high fashion intersectioned lines despite the saturation of collabs.  Especially when somehow, it supercedes Yamamoto's own work like it has done this season.  Don't shoot, but I did prefer the Y-3 A/W 11-12 collection to Yamamoto's own mainline which took a weirdly aggressive turn.  Call me a fuddy duddy but I prefer the quiet and historically romantic side to Yamamoto's aesthetic.  For Y-3, a dust-covered country road trip somewhere in America (but you don't quite know where...) was the journey that would take us through protective clothing that doesn't just have the fancy look of a warm cocoon (and there are plenty of those this season...) but also does the real job of coping with the outside elements, with fabrics like 'Cool Mad Wool', a breathable wool that isn't insane but has an evaporative cooling system, and 'Diaplex', a wool herringbone bonded to goretex that moulds itself to the body.  Naturally books like Jack Kerouac’s On the Road and Jon Krakauer’s Into the Wild were on Yamamoto's reading agenda.  I was all for the super low-slung backpacks that were literally hanging on the bum along with the warming slouchiness of it all, indicative of Yamamoto's past work, co-opted into pieces that I'd wear should I ever take such a road trip (I'm still trying to make a Las Vegas to Portland driving holiday happen...).

A magnificent Yohji Yamamoto wave has set upon London and I'm happy to see his work lapping upon the shores of our fickle minds.  We may very easily forget the impact and longevity of his work but a trio of exhibitions at the Victoria & Albert Museum, The Wapping Project and The Wapping Project Bankside will hopefully prevent that from ever happening.  I'll be investigating the main V&A and Bankside exhibitions later but to see the first of the trio, I took a weird and winding bus ride down to The Wapping Project.  Housed in the boiler house of the Wapping Hydraulic Power Station is the installation 'Yohji Making Waves'.  I'm not sure if the title is quite befitting to what I saw.  It wasn't noise or heavy crashing that I saw and heard in that cavernous space.  The famous oversized white silk wedding dress with a bamboo crinoline from Yamamoto's A/W 1998 collection has been overturned and suspended in the boiler house room that has been flooded with water.  You can take the boat moored at the side of the room around for a tranquil turn in the waters that eerily reflect the upside down dress.  I sadly couldn't take the boat to get a closer look.  I may even go back just to say that I went to an exhibition where I rode a boat.  You're sucked in as soon as you're closed into the darkness of the space, illuminated only by the bust of the dress and the lights at the side.  The soundtrack as well as the drip of the water gives you a feeling you're buried underground somewhere with this luminous object before you that looks like it's in motion or multiplying on itself because of the reflection.  You also have no idea how deep the water is which makes the space seem like a bottomless vortex, where you float about on water with the Yamamoto dress as your centre of gravity...

Star collection Cristopher Kane

The ideal story of contemporary fashion

The main advantage of a new exhibition - a huge amount of video material. Frankly, this is something so often lacking in many fashion-shows. It is one thing - look at the mannequins with clothing (albeit incredible), and quite another - there and then see the same clothes in motion. What a treat! Instantly striking difference in the formulation of hits: how far these playful and somewhere even naive fashion show with dancing and smiling models from the inspirational hits from the XXI century! Who would have thought that the shows of Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé a

An anthem of my life

It doesn't matter if you love him, or capital H-I-M
Just put your paws up
'Cause you were born this way, baby


My mama told me when I was young
We are all born superstars
She rolled my hair and put my lipstick on
In the glass of her boudoir
"There's nothin wrong with lovin who you are"
She said, "'cause he made you perfect, babe"
"So hold your head up girl and you'll go far,
Listen to me when I say"


I'm beautiful in my way
'Cause god makes no mistakes
I'm on the right track baby
I was born this way
Don't hide yourself in regret
Just love yourself and you're set
I'm on the right track baby
I was born this way

Ooo there ain't no other way
Baby I was born this way
Baby I was born this way
Ooo there ain't no other way
Baby I was born -
I'm on the right track baby
I was born this way

Don't be a drag - just be a queen
Don't be a drag - just be a queen
Don't be a drag - just be a queen
Don't be!


Give yourself prudence
And love your friends
Subway kid, rejoice your truth
In the religion of the insecure
I must be myself, respect my youth
A different lover is not a sin
Believe capital H-I-M (hey hey hey)
I love my life I love this record and
Mi amore vole fe yah (love needs faith)


I'm beautiful in my way
'Cause god makes no mistakes
I'm on the right track baby
I was born this way
Don't hide yourself in regret
Just love yourself and you're set
I'm on the right track baby
I was born this way

Ooo there ain't no other way
Baby I was born this way
Baby I was born this way
Ooo there ain't no other way
Baby I was born -
I'm on the right track baby
I was born this way

Don't be a drag - just be a queen
Don't be a drag - just be a queen
Don't be a drag - just be a queen
Don't be!


Don't be a drag, just be a queen
Whether you're broke or evergreen
You're black, white, beige, chola descent
You're lebanese, you're orient
Whether life's disabilities
Left you outcast, bullied, or teased
Rejoice and love yourself today
'Cause baby you were born this way

No matter gay, straight, or bi,
Lesbian, transgendered life
I'm on the right track baby
I was born to survive
No matter black, white or beige
Chola or orient made
I'm on the right track baby
I was born to be brave


I'm beautiful in my way
'Cause god makes no mistakes
I'm on the right track baby
I was born this way
Don't hide yourself in regret
Just love yourself and you're set
I'm on the right track baby
I was born this way

I was born this way hey!
I was born this way hey!
I'm on the right track baby
I was born this way hey!

Anna Dello Russo at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2011

Alexander Mcqueen Fall 2011

Still, these were scarcely clothes for the real world. That wasn't really the point. It felt much more like Burton wanted to remind the planet that she isn't channeling the McQueen DNA, she is the McQueen DNA. Hence, those heritage silhouettes with their buoyant trains of silk organza or undulating threads of tulle or the harnesses that evoked such deliberately troubling associations. The most (quietly) spectacular piece was a gown with a body collaged from broken china, which erupted into a froth of organza. McQueen himself might have injected an edge of barely suppressed violence into such a piece. Here, serenity ruled. Which, in the interests of future princesses everywhere, is probably a wise option. 

 

Sarah Burton definitely isn't shying away from the weight of legacy she's inherited. Her venue was La Conciergerie, Marie Antoinette's prison and the site of an Alexander "Lee" McQueen show that was made memorable by the presence on the catwalk of live wolves (doped-up wolves or perhaps just some particularly lupine dogs, but still). No such threat of danger tonight, though the crackling neon lights were a reminder of McQueen's asylum show and the theme—"The Ice Queen and her court"—had the suitably chilly ring of a vintage McQueen ritual. The collection furthermore drew on what the show notes called "heritage silhouettes."What this all boiled down to was Burton skimming off the top of her vast reconceptualization of the house aesthetic to produce three dozen couture pieces reflecting that aesthetic at its purest. Literally. As in white-light burning bright. In the frenzied backstage press of congratulations, the designer could barely gasp one word to define her intent: "Icy." But it wasn't really that cold. What Burton designed had a blurry-edged softness, which came from the fur that lined hems, cuffs, and shoulder seams. The material wrapped the skirt of a drop-waist halterneck dress or swathed the hood of a sleeveless sheath. And when it wasn't fur, it was frayed, streaming organza that blurred the lines. (Amid such extravagant touches, you weren't likely to forget the rumor that Kate Middleton has selected the house to design her wedding gown.)

Ricardo silence and Visionaire

Anniversary issue of the journal is devoted to religion.

Fantastic dress on the show Comme des Garçons Fall 2011.

 Yesterday on the show comme des  garcons were very pretty dresses.Binding was very heavy in dresses.Shoe-like boots from the spring summer collection prada.On the dresses looked like something that the board imposed the fabric on the fabricand twisted them.

Lanvin Fall Winter 2011 Finale

Sincerest apologies for the shaky hands during the beautiful Lanvin fall/winter 2011 fashion show finale.

Pictures to follow. Bravo Alber!

Maison Martin Margiela Fall Winter 2011 Bags

I'm obsessed with these foldable, oversized clutch bags at Margiela. So chic! They're my must-have bags for fall

Balmain Fall Winter 2011 Finale

Here's a video I took of the Balmain fall/winter 2011 fashion show finale.

The crystal-embellished dresses were phenomenal and my view at the show was unbeatable.

Photos to follow, as always.

Anna Dello Russo in Motion

Ever wonder how Anna Dello Russo works it for streetstyle photographer Tommy Ton? Here's Anna after the Dries Van Noten show.

Mugler Fall Winter 2011 Final Walkthrough and Lady Gaga at model in the show

Here's the view from my seat at the Mugler fall/winter 2011 fashion show last night.

                                                          

It's not every day you get to see one of the world's biggest and brightest pop stars within a six feet radius from She walked the fall/winter 2011 Thierry Mugler fashion show in Paris last night and had two looks.

 Ladies and gays, may I present you Lady Gaga

Colored shoes

 The first thing I want to do with the coming of spring - please yourself new shoes. Evenif the weather does not allow us to go out in open sandals, and very much want, you can wear them with bright socks, or traditional black tights. The main thing is that the shoes were as vividly as possible

The main trends of this spring in the photographes

Etro Fall Winter 2011 Final Walkthrough

Here's the view from my seat at the fall/winter 2011 Etro show yesterday.

Gianfranco Ferre Fall Winter 2011 Final

Here's the view from my seat at the Gianfranco Ferre fall/winter 2011 fashion show.

Versace Fall Winter 2011 Finale

Here's the view from my seat at the fabulous fall/winter 2011 Versace fashion show.

D&G Fall Winter 2011 Finale

Here's the view of the finale from my seat at the fall/winter 2011 D&G fashion show.

Gucci Fall Winter 2011 Final Walkthrough

Here's the view from my front-row seat at the fall/winter 2011 Gucci fashion show.

Retrospective Alexander McQueen

 Photos from the exhibition catalog Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty will leave no one indifferent

 In the Metropolitan Museum in New York, as we have already written, May 4, will host an exhibition of selected works Lee McQueen. Sneak preview of these things, organized by Anna Wintour, was held on 22 February at London's Ritz. They have already seen Stella McCartney, Sarah Burton and photographer Solvay Sundsbo, who made these pictures for the exhibition catalog - and now you do. See all the eyes may be on the second floor of the museum from May 4 to July 31.

Isabelle Blow_A woman on who remember always!

 Blow was the fashion director of Tatler and consulted for DuPont Lycra, Lacoste, and Swarovski. In 2002, she became the subject of an exhibition entitled When Philip met Isabella, featuring sketches and photographs of her wearing Treacy's hat designs.

In 2004, she had a brief acting cameo in the film The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou.

In 2005, Blow starred in a project by artist Matthieu Laurette, commissioned and produced by Frieze Projects 2005 and entitled "What Do They Wear at Frieze Art Fair?" It consisted of daily guided tours of Frieze Art Fair led by Blow and fellow international fashion experts Peter Saville, Kira Joliffe, and Bay Garnett.

Shortly before her death, she was the creative director and stylist of a series of books about beauty in the Arab world; the books were being produced by Kuwaiti fashion entrepreneur Sheikh Majed al-Sabah. Blow was dismissed from the project for unknown reasons and attempted suicide.^{[citation needed]}

 In 1986, Blow returned to London and worked for Michael Roberts, then the fashion director of Tatler and the Sunday Times Style magazine.^[10]

In 1989, Blow married her second husband, art dealer Detmar Hamilton Blow, in Gloucester Cathedral; he is a grandson (and namesake) of the early 20th-century society architectDetmar Blow. Philip Treacy designed the bride's wedding headdress and a now-famous fashion relationship was forged. Realizing Treacy's talent, Blow established Treacy in her London flat, where he worked on his collections. She soon began wearing Treacy's hats, making them a signature part of her flamboyant style^] In a 2002 interview with Tamsin Blanchard, Blow declared that she wore extravagant hats for a practical reason:

"...to keep everyone away from me. They say, Oh, can I kiss you? I say, No, thank you very much. That's why I've worn the hat. Goodbye. I don't want to be kissed by all and sundry. I want to be kissed by the people I love." 

In 1993, Blow worked with the photographer Steven Meisel producing the Babes in London shoot featuring Plum Sykes, Bella Freud, and Honor Fraser. Blow had a natural sense of style and a good feeling for future fashion directions. She discovered Alexander McQueen and purchased his entire graduate collection for ₤5,000, paying it off in weekly ₤100 installments. Spotting Sophie Dahl, Blow described Dahl as "a blow up doll with brains", and launched the model's career.

Blow moved to New York City in 1979 to study Ancient Chinese Art at Columbia University and shared a flat with the actress Catherine Oxenberg. A year later, she left the Art History programme at Columbia, moved to Texas, and worked for Guy Laroche. In 1981, she married her first husband, Nicholas Taylor (whom she divorced in 1983), and was introduced to the fashion director of the U.S. edition of Vogue, Anna Wintour. She was hired initially as Wintour's assistant, but it was not long before she was assisting Andre Leon Talley, now U.S.Vogue's editor-at-large. While working in New York, she befriended Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat

Those Prada Shoes...

I've been lusting over those spring/summer 2011 Prada shoes the moment they came out of the runway (both men's and women's) but alas, every single pair in the colors I want (black,, and blue + yellow + brown) are all sold out everywhere. It's the shoe of the season, no doubt.

Lady luck must be on my side because this pair came in my size so I got them at Montenapoleone. It's not exactly the color combination I want but they're super nice nonetheless. I saw something in New York -- silver leather with huge, pink and white platform soles but they're not for sale. Ah well.

RODARTE FALL 2011 FINALE SHOW

Here's the view from my seat at therodarte fall/winter 2011 fashion show. It's one of my top three favourite collections to date.

Finsk Ambassador

 Say hello to the latest addition to my (slowly but surely) growing shoe collection.

The fabulous gals over at Finsk shoes sent me a custom-made, size 41 European, pair, this time in python-embossed leather. Julia Lundsten's ferociously fierce shoes are shamelessly copied but nothing beats the original. can't wait to wear these on my next travels. I've worn my ponyskin Finsk shoes to death. It's time to put them to retirement.

Many, many thanks to Dannell and Julia!

Finsk shoes are available at Farfetch.

RODARTE FALL 2011 RTW SHOW

 

 You didn't need to know that Kate and Laura Mulleavy had been watching the Terrence Malick movie Days of Heaven to ascertain that the sisters had taken the American Plains as their latest inspiration. The clues weren't exactly hard to follow on today's runway: silk gowns printed with a wheat field at the hem, ankle-grazing prairie coats, leather and ponyskin separates with geometric insets that called to mind quilts. The only items that might have thrown you off the scent were the pair of ruby red party dresses at the end. But as Kate explained afterward, "We couldn't go to Nebraska and Kansas and not do a Wizard of Oz reference."

 Malick's film is a fashion favorite, but the Mulleavy sisters made the reference their own via their signature devotion to craft. The quilting on the pinafore tops and apron skirts was appliquéd by hand, and the wool and mohair sweaters likewise never saw the inside of a knitting machine. The question is this: Will these clothes, with their countrified starting points, entrance the label's clientele of urban sophisticates the way previous collections have? Dr. Lisa Airan, after all, walked into the 12 p.m. show in a sheer ivory Rodarte cocktail dress studded with gold crystals. The answer? Yes, with the exception perhaps of the sentimental floral embroideries. .

 Commercial is the wrong word for it, but there's no debating the fact that Kate and Laura are steadily getting savvier about the business end while maintaining their singular vision.

 For one, the show's longer silhouettes jibed with the current fashion Zeitgeist. And for another, the Mulleavys continue to push into categories that they've ignored before. It's hard to recall a single coat from their last several Fall collections; here there were plenty to choose from—and thanks to technically accomplished cutouts at the sides of the torso, they looked quite unique.